With the change in seasons comes an inevitable switch-up in our skincare regimes, moving away from light, summery products to richer, more sophisticated formulations that will nourish and hydrate as the temperatures start to plummet and the central heating is cranked up. From replenishing serums and moisturisers to the next generation of actives guaranteed to deliver on firming, smoothing and anti-ageing results, The Glossary’s Beauty Director Alex Steinherr has hand-picked the best new beauty releases that will take you through the winter season.
My mantra for the new season is that yes, while it’s definitely the time for switching your skincare up a notch and introducing a more complex routine than usual to work on pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and texture, keep it gentle.
There are some really innovative and sophisticated launches that have just been launched, but the key is to introduce any new skincare formulations gradually. Using the wrong products or the right products incorrectly can over-compromise the skin barrier, resulting in inflammatory reactions and irritated skin that’s totally counter productive. Not only this, but if you start using too many different products, you won’t actually know which ones are working for you, and which aren’t.
As the warmer weather gives way to autumn and then winter, now is the time to introduce new actives, as sunlight deactivates retinoids and strong acids. Though do remember you need to wear an SPF30 year-round in the UK, outside and indoors to protect not just from the sun’s rays, which can penetrate windows, but also blue-light damage, emitted from our screens.
It’s also time to nourish, replenish and support skin barrier function, which can become impaired as the temperature dips and the heating goes on, by layering up with moisturisers and serums, and introducing hydrating and ultra-nourishing masks and balms to your regime.
Just remember to go into this season with a renewed understanding that it’s actually about being moderate, rather than piling on every new product. Here’s my pick of the best of what’s new this season.
L’Eau de Mousse Anti-Pollution Water-To-Foam Cleanser (£40) is a soap- and sulphate-free self-foaming cleanser that rids skin of impurities and pollutants. Hydrating, deep conditioning ingredients include marine salicornia extract to deliver instant moisture and freshness without disturbing the acid mantle, making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin.
Chanel has added to its Le Lift firming skincare line with Lip and Contour Care (£68), which smooths, plumps and firms the delicate skin around the mouth and lips. Plus, the silky, non-greasy texture makes it perfect for wearing under lipstick.
Augustinus Bader is one of the most exciting brands on the market – I’m a huge fan. The hype around these two new hero products – both of which are powered by Bader’s famous patented TFC8® technology – is fully justified. The Serum (£280), silky smooth to apply, is a real all-rounder, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin super hydrated and radiant.
The Eye Cream (£150) is a lovely lightweight formula that boosts firmness and reduces puffiness and dark circles. Both come in 100% recyclable and refillable aluminium tubes in a blue glass base, combining luxury with sustainability.
The Queen Cream (£155) is very distinct from other moisturisers. It has a unique, balmy texture -while it doesn’t sink in immediately, it’s not heavy or sticky and leaves skin feeling very soft and nourished. The best way to describe it is like a silicone cream – it gives a beautiful finish to the face – but it doesn’t have silicone in it.
If you have dryness, the Queen Cleanser (£69) is a hydrating cream-cleanser that has that nostalgic, luxurious feeling of using a cold cream back in the day. It cleanses without stripping away any moisture and is really effective as a make-up remover.
The skin regenerates itself at night, so if you’re susceptible to irritation, use a night cream specifically developed for sensitivity. Sensitif Repairing Night Cream (£170) is a calming, redness-reducing gel-like cream with niacinamide to improve uneven skin tone.
Skin around the eyes is much thinner than elsewhere on the face, and prone to showing damage and ageing. What’s interesting about the Sensitif Eye Cream (£125) is that it’s for use during the day, as it has an SPF30. It’s very difficult to get an eye cream with SPF that is tolerable for sensitive skin because sunscreen can be irritating.
I’m excited that Clarins has finally brought out an eye product in their best selling Double Serum line. The Double Eye Serum (£56) has the same two-phase formula, with dual chambers containing water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, which you mix pre application.Enriched with plant extracts including anti-ageing powerhouse turmeric, it’s comfortable to apply and feels nourishing and conditioning, leaving the eye area firmer and smoother – great for people who feel like they’re showing the first signs of ageing – and, although it’s rich, it isn’t heavy so won’t migrate and irritate.
Squalane is one of my favourite skincare ingredients – it’s so versatile and really benefits most skin types. Biossance is a go-to for me, and I’m impressed with the latest additions. Squalane + BHA Pore Minimizing Toner (£24) combines natural BHA, derived from raw white-willow bark, which really clears out the oil from pores, and hydrating squalane, so skin isn’t left feeling stripped. Squalane + Elderberry Jelly Cleanser ($28) is one of those rich, melt-away cleansers, ideal for the heavier make-up wearer, or for cleansing the skin of sunscreen, with antioxidant-rich elderberry extract.
The latest retinol products all deliver on firming, smoothing and anti-ageing results without irritation or compromising the skin barrier. Welcome to the new generation of actives…
You want a controlled delivery when it comes to applying a retinol around the eyes, which makes Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream (£50) ideal. It comes in a pump that gives you exactly the right dosage: an eight-hour release of retinol, peptides, niacinamide and ceramides to firm, depuff and improve tone.
Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum (£40) is a combination of retinoid, peptide complex and hyaluronic acid – so you get the rejuvenating action of a retinol, but it’s also hydrating and boosts collagen. Plus, it’s gentle enough to use twice a day, though always wear sunscreen.
If you have a loss of elasticity and an onset of wrinkles, dehydration or uneven skin tone, Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment (£86) is for you. The blend of retinol, ferulic acid, superfruit-derived ingredient rambutan and antioxidant bakuchiol smooths and strengthens skin while you sleep.