Exosomes may be miniscule, but they are huge when it comes to anti-ageing skincare. The nanoparticles enable cell-to-cell regeneration, boosting collagen and elastin production when they penetrate the skin, resulting in a smoother, plumper complexion. Little wonder they’re being hailed as an alternative to botox and fillers. Here, Alex gives the lowdown on exosomes and where to find the best exosome skin therapy treatments in London.
If you haven’t already heard of exosome therapy, you soon will. It’s the very latest rejuvenating and anti-ageing treatment, that many in the industry are calling the “new frontier of beauty on a global scale”. But what exactly are exosomes and what do they do? Exosomes are nanoparticles that are released by our cells, containing a mixture of lipids, proteins, amino acids and peptides. Their day-to-day function is to enable powerful cell-to-cell communication. In terms of beauty, when exosomes penetrate the dermis, they send signals to our fibroblast cells to act optimally, triggering regeneration and stimulating the production of skin-boosting collagen and elastin.
Exosome skin therapy is the means of ensuring that these skin-boosting exosomes work at a cellular level. The best way to do this is in a professional environment via microneedling. As well as triggering the repair mechanism in the skin, the microneedle creates microchannels, after which an exosome-rich serum, elixir or gel is applied by the therapist. In some treatments, the exosomes can be applied prior to the microneedling or are sandwiched between a number of passes.
Once the exosomes have penetrated the dermis via these microchannels, they then re-educate the skin to function at its best, encouraging it to behave more youthfully and leaving it ultra-rejuvenated. Indeed, the exosomes can then help boost collagen production by a staggering 700% and elastin by 300%, not just on the face, also around the delicate eye area, the lips and the neck. But as well as smoothing and plumping fine lines and supercharging skin quality, exosomes also work on pigmentation and, thanks to their anti-inflammatory properties, they help improve redness, rosacea and acne. These positive effects are usually noticeable within a few exosome treatments (clinics usually recommend a course of between four and six sessions) and can last for up to 12 months.
“The fashion is no longer to freeze with botox or fill with fillers, instead my patients are looking to exosomes for their anti-ageing and rejuvenating properties. They want to turn the clock back ten years by letting their body do the work”
Dr Shameema Damree, The London Exosomes Clinic
After just two Le Supreme Skin exosome treatment sessions at EF Future Health, I am blown away by the results. I one hundred percent notice the difference – not only is the downtime minimal, my skin is smoother and tighter, and I definitely see a reduction in my fine lines, especially around the lower half of my face. No wonder that exosomes are being hailed as the new wonder treatment and a great alternative to botox and fillers. “We are definitely seeing a movement towards regenerating aesthetics,”explains Dr Shameema Damree, a leading expert in exosomes, who runs The London Exosomes Clinic. “The fashion is no longer to freeze with botox or fill with fillers, instead my patients are turning to exosomes for their anti-ageing and rejuvenating properties. They want to turn the clock back ten years by letting their body do the work.”
Andrea Pfeffer, founder of holistic beauty space Salon C. Stellar, agrees. “The most exciting thing for me is that exosomes trigger a response in our own body to perform and be at its best. We are not stripping, peeling, plumping and freezing our way to looking and feeling better,” she tells me. “This new approach energises our cells, triggering a response from our body to do the work. This really is a fundamental approach across wellbeing generally. I want to support the body’s own function to be at its best and these new technologies are really paving the way for us to do this with significantly better results than we have ever seen before.”
There are two key factors in the efficacy of exosomes – quality and quantity – which is why it’s crucial that you have any exosome treatment in a professional clinic. For starters, the exosomes, which are in powder form before being mixed into a solution, need to come from a qualified laboratory and they must be refrigerated and used within four weeks. “Quality is number one, as not all exosomes are the same. High quality exosomes in treatments reduce the downtime a lot. Number two is the quantity of exosomes. Because they’re such tiny particles they need to be used in their billions,” Dr Damree tells me.
“The most exciting thing for me is that exosomes trigger a response in our own body to perform and be at its best. We are not stripping, peeling, plumping and freezing our way to looking and feeling better”
Andrea Pfeffer, founder of Salon C. Stellar
Although exosomes are best administered during a professional treatment, it is possible to apply them topically. But, despite many cosmetic companies jumping on the trend and bringing out exosome products, just because you see the word ‘exo’ on the box, I’d exercise caution. For topical products to be effective, Dr Damree tells me, they have to be pharmaceutical grade. The ASCEplus ExoBalm she uses, for example, is powered by 2.5 billion exosomes and is an intensive at-home treatment for face and eyes rejuvenation.
“Exosomes are a major breakthrough,” she says. “We will be speaking about exosomes in the next 20 to 30 years and in a very major way. They are going to be the next generation platforms for drug manufacturing to treat Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s, cancer. But the clinical trials for these take a long time, so that’s why we’re seeing the benefits in skincare first.”
The Best Exosome Treatments in London
Le Supreme Skin at EF Future Health
This is a new treatment from EF Future Health that harnesses the power of exosomes. The 90-minute treatment begins with a thorough cleanse and consultation, after which the therapist creates a bespoke needling sequence. An exosome-rich elixir is applied and then the microneedling begins, but rather than using machines, the therapist uses a very fine microneedling pen. At the end, the therapist applies a cooling sheet mask and they also give you a proprietary exosome serum to apply at home. There’s very little downtime as the needle is so fine and skin feels firmer and smoother. A treatment course of Le Supreme Skin, two to four weeks apart, is recommended for best results.
From £1,300 for 90 minutes
29 Kensington Church St, Kensington, W8
The 5 Billion EXO ExoDeep Lift at The London Exosomes Clinic
For this treatment, Dr Damree utilises the world’s first cooling microneedling RF device, the VirtueRF, which she combines with a 5 Billion ASCEplus exosome gel. After assessing and cleansing your face, Dr Damree contours and tightens the chin area, jowls and upper face with the high-tech device – and she also uses a smaller handpiece for around the eyes. She does five different passes with the machine, at different depths, so the skin is ultra-receptive; between each pass, she applies the exosome gel. Because of the device’s cooling tip, the downtime is minimal, leaving skin tightened, lifted and glowing from the get-go. For best results, the clinic recommends five sessions every two weeks apart.
Urban Retreat, 2 Hans Crescent, Knightsbridge, SW1X
Stellar Face Exosome treatment at Salon C. Stellar
Andrea Pfeffer’s new opening Salon C. Stellar is a holistic space in Soho that offers progressive treatments for skin, body and mind. The 90-minute Stellar Face Exosome treatment is recommended for anyone who wants advanced skin rejuvenation (improved skin texture, minimised pores, fine lines and wrinkles, brightened skin) or who wants to combat pigmentation. The treatment starts with a double cleanse and a skin analysis, before a numbing cream is applied. The exosome infusion is carried out via a microneedling pen, with the treatment finishing with a professional microcurrent mask, followed by LED light therapy to enhance the skin’s natural rejuvenation and repair process. Recommended course of four to six treatments.
£750 for 90 minutes
19b Beak Street, Soho, W1F