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Back to the 90s: Thierry Le Gouès’ new book celebrates the supermodel era

The iconic French photographer's new coffee table tome chronicles fashion editorial in the nineties

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Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista… all feature in 90s by Thierry Le Gouès. For these are the supermodels who helped redefine the fashion industry in the Nineties, and who the legendary French photographer helped put on the world’s radar. Le Gouès’ images have now been compiled in a glossy new photography book, giving a fascinating insight into the extraordinary creativity and energy of the decade 

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Kate Moss by Thierry Le Gouès
Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Kate Moss by Thierry Le Gouès

Here to fuel everyone’s ongoing obsession with the Nineties is a must-have new coffee table book from French photographer Thierry Le Gouès. Simply called 90s, the pages of this glossy publication are bursting with Le Gouès’ striking fashion photography that both documented a turning point in the fashion world and introduced the world to a new class of supermodels.

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Kate Moss by Thierry Le Gouès

The book’s dazzling cover image of a nude Kate Moss painted entirely in gold sets the tone. After all, who could be a better choice than Kate, whose meteoric rise in the Nineties was a defining feature of what many regard as the golden era of fashion and creativity. Le Gouès came up with the idea of the Goldfinger-inspired image of a nude Kate shimmering in full gold paint for an Esquire cover with make-up artist Kenny Campbell. The tagline that ran with the captivating image? Golden Girl: Kate Moss conquers the world.

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Kate Moss by Thierry Le Gouès

Throughout the next decade, Le Gouès became one of the key figures in the Nineties’ creative fashion explosion. This was the time when the big titles like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, as well as more avant garde London magazines such as i-D and Dazed, were happy to give young creatives like Le Gouès the freedom to lean into and shape the cultural zeitgeist with their shoots – as demonstrated by the 280 photos pulled from his archive for the book.

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Naomi Campbell by Thierry Le Gouès
Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Diane Kruger by Thierry Le Gouès

One of the first models that Le Gouès shot for a big title was Carla Bruni, the legendary French model and former First Lady of France. A friend and muse, Bruni features heavily in the book, and even writes the preface, where she describes Le Gouès’ style as “imbued with delicacy and empathy, the shots are simple and joyful.”

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Carla Bruni by Thierry Le Gouès

This was only the beginning of myriad magic pairings between Le Gouès’ lens and now-famous faces throughout a career which also saw him work for brands including Alexander McQueen, Cartier, Fendi, Gucci, Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin. 

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Linda Evangelista by Thierry Le Gouès
Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Naomi Campbell by Thierry Le Gouès
Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Amber Valetta by Thierry Le Gouès

Within the pages of 90’s, you’ll find a black and white cover shot of Naomi Campbell for Vogue Hommes, a cinematic shot of a giant Linda Evangelista stepping out of a billboard in a latex catsuit, and astonishing portraits of Amber Valletta, Eva Herzigova, Tatjana Patitz and more. Plus, of course, Kate.

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Naomi Campbell by Thierry Le Gouès

90s is the fourth book to be released by Le Gouès in collaboration with PowerHouse Books. His first, Soul, which was published in 1997, was a bold and important statement that championed Black models at a time when they were largely excluded from fashion editorials. The book itself featured Black models shot in a high contrast, graphic style, and was such a success that it led to a multi-year international Nike campaign.

Thierry Le Gouès’ New Book 90S Celebrates Fashion’s Gold EraPin
Photography: Thierry Le Gouès

Now with the publication of 90s, fashion and art obsessives can fully indulge their nostalgia for the culture-shifting decade.  

90s by Thierry Le Gouès (PowerHouse Books, $69)

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